Posted 11:03 PM by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 14 OF 14 MAY: MOTHER’S DAY

THOUGHTS:

1. On Travel

"One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things."
–- Henry Miller

2. On Mothers

A mother is not a person to lean on, but a person to make leaning unnecessary.
- Dorothy Canfield Fisher

ACTIVITIES:

1. Mother’s Morning:

Relaxed Mother’s day felt like a holiday should. There was no GSE itinerary, so some of us started with celebration brunches. Some of our caring hosts have felt practically like new mothers (Renee’s Doroty even refers to Renee as her ‘hija’ – daughter), but Eric actually observed Mother’s Day with his very own Grand-mom (“Grandmother’s Day”).

2. Monica’s Monterrico Surco Patio Bar-BQ

Renee and Melanie went to Monterrico to join Nico (Renee’s surfing friend) for his Mother’s Day party. We had never seen Lima life style like this. In this tight knit family of mothers, grandmothers, cousins, and kids, the warmth so abounded that they took us right in. Monica, Nico’s mother, had a wonderful home with impeccably decorated interior, impressive impressionistic paintings, horses and pets in a beautiful yard, and a patio that was perfect for parties.

OBSERVATIONS:

1. Climate Circa Monterrico Surco: What a Difference a 20 Minutes Can Make:

It only took 20 minutes to drive to Monica’s hometown, Monterrico. Still in Lima, but slightly up a hill, the climate was surprisingly different. Downtown Lima is usually gray. Monterrico stays sunny and bright. It was also less humid and quickly got cold at night.

2. Peru Peros (Dogs): Hounds Abound All Around Lima:

Streets of Peru sport many stray mutts, particularly in less developed places. In the dirt streets of Pando, pups snoozed in the sun, and at Lunahuana, many mutts chased Melanie on her morning run. There are also lovely loved ones like Huskar, a lamb-like Rottweiller at Monica’s home. One man at the party who had traveled to the States pointed out that Peru has a different dog taste. People who have pets in Peru often pick Schnauzers. Pet people in the States go for the Golden Retrievers.

TO OUR MOM’S, HAPPY MOTHER’S DAY WITH LOVE

Posted 6:21 PM by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 13 OF 13 MAY

THOUGHTS

1. On Travel:

"A journey of a thousand miles must begin with a single step." -- Lao Tzu

2. On Mother’s Day Tomorrow:

"It is not what you do for your children but what you have taught them to do for themselves that will make them successful human beings."
- Ann Landers

ACTIVITIES

1. Saturday Day Show / Saturday Night Live

Saturday morning, Bart toured the National Museum. Melanie explored her neighborhood, and then at home partook of play dough pizzas with her host’s five-year-old son, Mauricio. Eric saw his grandma, and Renee did some shopping. It was good to start slow since Saturday night would be late.

2. Work and Play at the Pub: A New Professional Experience for Our Professional Exchange:

Colonial Rotary Club hopeful and Melanie’s host, Rocio showed us today’s young professional exchange “Presentation.” Entrepreneurial Rocio, a new business owner, had a Bar in Barranco, the best night life in town. Her start-up pub was still a month young, so to iron out any wrinkles, she only opened the doors now to her private invitations. The word 'Pub' means “Public House,” so etymology-minded Melanie mulled this private pub’s misnomer over many too many times.

While Rocio set up, Melanie meandered through the markets. She struck up some conversations and ambled along fragrant sidewalks with bar-BQs, food stalls, and fun atmosphere. Saturday night in Barranco bubbled with life. Renee joined the party before long.

3. Making a Living on Night Life:

The Bar business worked well for Rocio. Her three-room establishment offered options for all tastes from loud music back room to coffee shop style couches, to a casual open air patio. By midnight, Rocio was worried since the business, though full, was not perfectly packed. But before three, the dance floor dancers were squished like sardines. Melanie cut out early, but the insatiable crowd stayed until nearly dawn.

OBSERVATIONS:

1. Traffic Takes Getting Used To:

Traffic in Lima takes getting used to. One Rotarian, Frank, opted out entirely by hiring a full-time driver. Only about thirteen kilometers (about 6 miles) across, Lima commutes can take well over an hour.

…Which may lead to another “Blog-Thought:”
"Travel is glamorous only in retrospect." -Paul Theroux

Posted 4:22 PM by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 12 OF 12 MAY

THOUGHTS:

1. Travel:

"Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness."-Mark Twain

2. Mothers Day Coming:

“The most important thing a father can do for his children is to love their mother.” - Author Unknown

ACTIVITIES:

1. Atelio Castagnino of Callao Club Takes us to Fort Real Felipe:

Callao Club member, Atelio Castagnino took us to Fortilesa Real Felipe, the most important Spanish fort protecting gold against pirates before Peru’s independence. Mid-peninsula, it was surrounded by water.

A. Claustrophobia in the Carcel (Prison).

Envision a two-foot-wide prison. Castle-like, with canons atop high stone reinforcements, the fort had three towers including one with a prison inside. The dark stairwell wound up to a two-foot side stretch of sealed off corridor called a prison. It was 250 feet long, it never grew wider, and it held seventy to eighty political prisoners at once. There were no bathrooms and and imates got bread and water just twice a week. The winding cell wrapped around the more spacious watchman’s room from where eavesdropping guards gleaned information from prisoners’ gossip.

B. The Room of Answers (And Heroic Decisions):

The Room of Answers was a tribute to a brave set of soldiers who chose to face near certain death and to fight the many times more powerful Chileans. Each Peruvian did die, but one Argentinean survived and went on later to be president of his country.

2. “Mother’s Friday” Lunch at the Club Callao Meeting:

The Friday before Mother’s Day was as big as Mom’s Day itself. Children’s schools put on live shows, there were lunch celebrations, and at night we saw music and dance. Today, at a waterfront restaurant Rana Verde, women were in half the seats at the all-men’s Callao Rotary Club meeting. Mother’s and wives were the club’s honored guests.

At the meeting, men took the floor for readings about mothers in general, testimonials about their own, sad moments in memorial, and even some poetry and song. For this club’s celebration, “Mother’s Day” was more like “Women’s Day” as the men also presented gifts to non-mothers, Melanie and Renee.

3. “Mother’s Night”:

Jaime, from our 9 May La Molina Club meeting made Mother’s Day even more memorable. Jaime and Carla’s beautiful home in the La Molina hills above Lima was nestled in a large grassy yard. With a drier climate thanks to the hills, their patio was perfect for a summer party. Peruvian aperitifs included Pisco Sour and Algarobina (a rich brown bean based drink.) There was Peru’s pride in soda pop, Inka Cola, and only for Men there was whiskey. The Mother’s Night culinary highlight was a community pan of Paella about three feet wide. The Spanish rice dish can come several ways. Presentation is important, and this beautiful work was adorned with sea shells.

It was good that Jaime and Carla had a big yard and nice neighbors because live music and dancing went well into the morning. Mother’s Friday-night was over by more than four hours before anyone there headed home.

Posted 8:12 PM by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 11 OF 11 MAY


THOUGHT:

"Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living." –- Miriam Beard

ACTIVITIES

1. Daily Day:

While generally the GSE Schedule is tight, we have had lots of cancellations. Today one brought us another free morning. Eric visited relatives. Melanie found a gym and Enzo the owner let her in free. Bart saw a renowned author lecture at the Lima Club And Renee was recuperating from some bad food or water.

2. Pay it Forward: Past GSE Member Takes us to his Work, Telefonica

A former GSE to New York, Javier, brought us to his work at high tech Telefonica. The third largest company in the world, Telefonica started in Spain, but has a high concentration in Lima. The PowerPoint presentation in the small multimedia theater was impressive.

3. Voluntarios: A Creative Way to Contribute:

The pub Voluntarios, owned in part by Rotary members, came with the best pub perks like friendly service, comfy couches, and tapas (snacks), but what made it unique was that food and drink service was selfless. The staff at Voluntarios was all volunteer, so for prices comparable to a regular restaurant, a patron could contribute to a worthier cause. Voluntarios raises and donates about $600 a month.

4. A Taste of the Town, Rocio Style:

After Voluntarios, Melanie’s high energy host Rocio and her friend Flaca were ready for more. Near the middle of the night, the timing was right, since Limans do not get started until late. They promised to get us home early, and at 3:00 a.m. they probably thought that they did. Others joined us including Carlos Davila, a 2005 GSE to Colorado.

Our eclectic sampling ranged from mellow live music hall to table top dancers’ venue. As a last special treat, a local Peruvian place featured the African-Peruvian dance ‘Alcatraz.’ One dancer wore a paper tail pinned to her back while the other attempted to light it on fire. When the first moved her hips fast enough, the flame would not take to the elusive end of her tail.

OBSERVATIONS:

1. Rotary Comparisons:

From our exposure to Rotary there are certain norms in the States: for instance the “Flag Salute” or the “Four Part Test,” or the saying “Service Above Self.” Peruvians do not pledge allegiance, but the sentiment is certainly there as most clubs stand up at their meeting to applaud their flag. At meetings many good thoughts are displayed, but the “Four Part Test” has only been posted at one. Peruvians have a saying similar to “Service Above Self,” “Dar de Sí antes de pensar en Sí,” which means something like give of yourself before you think of yourself. But we have been told that their mantras may change with a vote.

Posted 8:46 PM by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 10 OF 10 MAY

ACTIVITIES:

1. A Morning in the Life:

Among our team, we covered many aspects of a daily life with excursions like shopping, Starbuck’s and a visit to grandma’s by Eric. Renee got a grand city tour by her hosts who took the day off. Eric and Melanie accompanied Rocio to the huge Jockey Mall (the first mall in Lima), a high-tech sparkly place with stereos blasting and HD TV’s playing. Surprisingly, it was just as expensive as home and had lots of familiar brands.

2. RC Monterrico Surco Meeting:

At night fall, David Sobrevilla brought us to the small Club Monterrico Surco. Their meeting included a tribute to a volunteer fireman who had saved a man’s life, two visiting firefighters, and a ‘thank you’ to the club for funding a two-year-old girl’s medical heart treatment. Lastly, they aptly described our cultural exchange as one way that Rotary can bring “Peace to the world.”

OBSERVATIONS:

1. Spanish Influence in Latin American Life:

Peru declared its independence from Spain in 1891, but some of the spirit of Spain still lives on. A tortilla is not the flat bread that we know in Colorado, but a thick patty of potato and eggs. Also, Spanish Paella rice dish is popular. In Spain, often children live with their parents well into adult life. Here as well, fully employed ‘thirty-somethings’ still commonly stay in the nest. Then, of course there are ‘tapas,’ free hors deurves style snacks at some restaurants and bars, and a bent for beginning and ending the night life out late. We have read that there is Spain’s ‘siesta,’ but that has been denied and we have not experienced it ourselves.

Posted 8:41 PM by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 9 OF 9 MAY

ACTIVITIES

1. PRIDE AND PROSPERITY: SCHOOL PROJECTS IN MANCHAI AND LA MOLINA

A. Morning Started in Manchai:

Club La Molina Member Jorge Carrasco showed us two of the club’s most important accomplishments. Twenty minutes east of Central Lima on the other side of the desert hills was Manchai, a part of Lima with low resources. Here, shanty style shelters had neither roads nor resources for water.

a. The Makings of a Town Like Manchai:

We learned that towns like Manchai start out with ‘Squatters’ who set up flimsy shelters. At first they are not welcomed, but after a long refusing to leave, they might eventually get government recognition. Then government ‘services’ begin. At a snail pace, services are start with the ‘Pyramid of Needs’, such as light. In this government where not even emergency services like fire trucks are subsidized, by the state, one can imagine that good schools don’t get speedy priority.

b. Manchai School Before Rotary Club’s Assistance:

In Manchai, a public ‘school’ plot did exist pre-Rotary. It consisted of two grass matt rooms, one teacher who ran back and forth between each to teach ninety kids K-6 with no water, no bathroom, no playground, all next to a dangerous cliff with unstable rocks teetering on top.

c. Rotary’s Work in Manchai:

Rotary worked with town parents to build an actual building. So far it has four rooms. Two more are under construction. Now there are four teachers (one is a volunteer) and a principal. The bathroom with a water tank is the best lieu in town. A retaining wall will be built to protect the play area, and as a special luxury, a set of soccer goals was donated.

d. Golden Children of Manchai:

The kids in this school overflowed with wonderful love. As we walked up, six year old Maria spontaneously gave Melanie a hug. Maria made quite an ambassador of Manchai with her intelligent clear communication and curious spirit.

In one classroom, the kids sung us a song and then smothered Bart’s and Melanie’s cheeks with wet kisses. The courteous children never asked for nor expected a thing, but we wished we could give them the world.

e. Q and A with the Kids:

Melanie asked the kids about school. They energetically informed her of their favorite subjects: math, art, and reading. They showed her their workbooks and told her of their favorite reads. While they talked, they were working on painting their Mother’s Day gifts.

f. Important Parent Involvement:

Outside the classrooms were a group of mothers and family. Many had taken part in the building of the school with their own elbow grease. They remained ready to help out as needed.

B. La Molina, the Second School Project of the Day:

a. Exceptional School for Exceptional Students:

We visited a second Rotary school in a wealthier La Molina. “La Escuela De Ninos Exceptionales Rotary Club La Molina,” of 1990 taught 97 special needs children from ages two months to 18 years old. Along with general education, there were trade courses including gardening, vending, and shop. There was even a pool. We watched their rehearsal for the upcoming Mother’s Day show.

C. A Very Small Something, For Those Deserving Something Big:

For these children who touched us so deeply, we gave only a token. We had several boxes of our GSE team pencils which we turned over to help if it could in both schools.

2. We Were Treated to Cuisine a La Molina:

The beautiful gated Rinconada Country Club where we had lunch with Jorge and two other club members Rubin and Anibal was a contrast from the poverty we had seen. As we were treated to the finest of local cuisine, we felt blessed by our fortunate lives.

3. La Molina Club Meeting at Night:

We returned later to the same club with member Jaime for the 9 p.m. meeting. The gracious all-men’s’ club made us at home. Our low-tech presentation without our usual PowerPoint projections made for a more intimate group setting.

4. Club Sponsored Projects:

Other service projects on that clubs plate included Peruvian “Adopt a School” program, much like a Cambodian one which Melanie discussed in her presentation. Like with our earlier Club Lima Sunrise, they were also involved with Bridges to Prosperity program. They had a Rotary Olympics planned for a fundraiser.

OBSERVATIONS:

1. MANCHAI: NEW PERSPECTIVE ON THE PRESIDENTIAL ELECTIONS

For the presidential elections coming in June, more wealthy Lima people are nearly unanimously for more free-market-minded Alan Garcia, or more accurately ‘against’ his left-leaning opponent. But people without means in places like Manchai are almost all for Humala. For us, seeing Manchai and its low living conditions made more clear why this divide.

Often, wealthy people tell us that the poor peoples’ opinion comes from political ignorance and lack of education. Our visit to Manchai gave more substances to their reasons. Nationalistic Leftist Peruvian property regulations could be the only glimmer of hope to which they can cling.

2. Volunteers Emerge in Emergencies:

In Peru, one of the most taxing jobs out there is not funded by government taxes. The fire departments and emergency response are 100% volunteer. Not even the trucks are subsidized by taxes. In a shanty town like Manchai, one has to wonder whether they have any hope of help if they need it.

3. No Benchmark of Standards of Living:

Among those who have money, like with apples and oranges, Peruvian and U.S. standards of living can not be compared. For example in Lima, maid service is not an elite luxury. It is so common that all of our host homes have employed live-ins, even single income single parents living in condos. On the other hand, here, people with personal computers often have dinosaur set ups with dial up connections, and pretty much no one has washing machines. Thus, “living standards” can only be called different. However, it does appear that many Peruvians work a little less hours, have a little more time on their hands, and need a little less sleep.

4. Conflict of Emotion About Maids: Strange to Be Served:

To some who are not used to it, the master-servant relationship with a maid can feel almost cast-ish. While some find it uncomfortable, to the maid it may be the only hope of employment, of shelter, creature comforts of a home, and a little bit of money. We are told that most are single, and if one gets pregnant, she is often kicked out. Though we have heard of households who have let them stay on, living in the home, maid, baby, and all.

Posted 11:17 AM by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 8 OF 8 MAY

ACTIVITIES:

1. Various Vocations Day:

Today the team split up for field trips in our own fields of work.

a. Renee Spa Day:

A first we were jealous that Renee, a masseuse, would be basking in her sort of “Work Experience” with a spa day. She had massages and other alternative treatments like acupuncture in store.

b. Bart and the Social Work Scene:

While a massage would have been a nice perk, the rest of our exchanges were educational too. Bart, our social worker, visited dream foundation with its mechanical soy milk making cows.

c. Eric and Melanie Learned about Lima Law:

Melanie and Eric, lawyers, learned a lot from Gisela, the Secretary of the Colegio of Notarios. A Peruvian notary is not what it is in the states. Here, their stamp is not just a witness to a signatory’s identity. A notary’s stamp means that the notary has researched the law, read the contents of contracts, consulted the parties, and given advice. Notaries are highly respected attorneys. Of nearly 40,000 attorneys in Lima, only 133 are notaries, and it has been six years since the last one was inaugurated. Notaries are neutral and may have no other jobs nor may they practice in any other places than the town of their office.

d. A Little More About Lawyers in Peru:

After law school, would-be lawyers can become licensed either by oral exam or by thesis. Either is a lot like a dissertation. Once they pass, they can practice all over Peru. But to litigate, they must still get licensed locally with the Collegio of Abogados in each city (like a State Bar in the States.) Here, attorneys can also go for advanced degrees, either masters or PhDs are available.

2. Melanie’s Move to a New Host Home:

Melanie got a new host, Rocio, an applicant to Rotary Club Colonial. Rocio stepped in on a single night’s notice after the originally scheduled host had to cancel.

3. After Vocational Day, Vacational Night:

Vocational day led to Vacational night, relaxing with Dina and Martin at their local pizza place. Renee, seduced by more spa treatment, decided to skip pizza, but the rest of us relished the relaxing atmosphere. Then, when Eric and Melanie piled in Rocio’s car “to go home”, calling it a night didn’t feel quite right. The three spent more time on the town. Rocio’s classy restaurant pick flaunted fine leather couches, fun conversation, good service, cervezas, snacks and smoothies. New fruity flavors included maracuya (papaya) and aguaymanto (like blackberry, but not).

OBSERVATIONS:

1. Our Spanish keeps coming. At times it is laborious, and at others it comes easily. But after a while, it can get somewhat exhausting. At the Colegio of Notaries, two hours of concentrating on comprehending complicated concepts of law caused Melanie a tired cabeza (head).

2. Comfortable with Compartir de Comida (sharing of food):

In some cultures, a person’s plate is private. Here, people quite comfortably compartir (share). There appears to be no taboo in food swapping, so as they say “when in Rome”… amongst our team, veggies and meat have become culinary commodities of trade.

Posted 11:08 AM by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 7 OF 7 MAY

ACTIVITIES:

1. The Botega Beat:

Lunahuana has lots of Pisco producing cellars. Yesterday, we started out on a tour of four, but found one was sufficient, so we stopped. Still it was fun to see barefoot girls stomping in a bin full of grapes “I Love Lucy” style, and to stroll through the subterranean cellars.

2. Relishing the Remainder of Riverfront Life On our last Lunahuana morning:

A. Rays by the River:

The unscheduled simplicity was nice. Some of us saw sunrise and some slept off last night’s gala. Eric, Melanie and Renee found a spot by the river for relaxing and reading and catching some rays.

B. Hopping on horses:

Rene, Eric, and Melanie hooked up with exchange student Miyuki. We piled into a tiny trike taxi which hemmed and hawed up the hill to a horse stable. There we hopped in the saddle and strode to some pre-Incan ruins. Eric, the Equine law lawyer, was especially aware of a lack of love, food, and water thatt these animals endured. On one cliff-side trail, Miyuki`s horse and Melanie’s unsociable stallion started to fight – our child guide’s only solution was to throw stones at the steeds. Still, we survived unscathed. The ruins were unimpressive, but we enjoyed the valley view from a summit.

C. Picked up in a Pick-Up:

After the horse ride, a highlight was the hitch hike back aback a local’s extra long cab. On the road, wind blown and bumpy, we maneuvered our way through an entourage of sheep and goats.

D. Last Lunch in Lunahuana:

Though many other guests left in the morning for Lima, our last Lunahuana lunch still came in conference style. There were Peruvian dancing devils, pan pipe playing musicians, gifts of local wines and bottles of Pisco, and then we were back on the bus back to Lima.

3. Last night with Lucho, Pilar, Jose Luis and Nadia:

Melanie’s host family met her in Lima for a last family supper since she would be changing homes in the morning. San Antonio’s Restaurant, a very “Melanie Style” place had a menu of multiple veggie selections.

OBSERVATIONS:

1. Litigia through a Lawyers Eyes:

While the States may be seen as excessively litigious, there may also be such a thing as too little. Lima, much less litigious, might be a case study for comparison. Some manifestations of less litigations included:

---The less than four foot deep pool with a two-story slide might have been deeper if law suits were a threat.
---The pool-side patio had super slick tile so that with wet feet we could barely walk without slipping.
---There were no ADA regulations for our rooms on a steep handicap-unfriendly hill.
---But refreshingly, there was a freedom from cumbersome disclaimers. In both rafting and horse riding, we simply hopped in/on. There were no acknowledgements nor waiving of rights.

2. Patriotic about Pisco:

Pisco is one of Peru’s proud productions. It is a 95% Brandy made from grapes. It is strong but is normally served as Pisco Sour, a luscious smoothy from lime juice, whipped egg whites, and sugar.

3. Dahli Llama in Lima:

While we were in Lunahuana, the Dahli Llama was in Lima. We saw no pomp and circumstance and in this mostly Catholic country, some people whom Melanie talked to did not even know who he was. His Lima stop was short lived and by morning he had flown to Cusco.

Posted 9:49 AM by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 6 OF 6 MAY

ACTIVITIES:

1. Sunrise and Shine

To the backdrop of big sunrise on sharp crests in the river valley, Melanie brought in her Birthday with a run. It was holistic as it was heart healthy. In town, she met Julio, a fellow early riser who would take us rafting later in the day. Both Melanie and Renee enjoyed morning exercises in this peaceful and picturesque pueblo.

2. Temprano Para Estar Tarde: Early to be Late for our Time in the Spotlight

On the schedule, we were set to make presentations at 11:30 a.m., so an hour early when we arrived well before 10:25, we were unpleasantly surprised to be told we were “on in five.” (…our slide show equipment should take fifteen minutes just to set up!). A frenzy of technical troubles, scrambled schedules, and idiom issues aside, we got through it thanks to a gracious crowd. Though thanks to tight timing, we were sad to be cut off from giving gifts of gratitude we had prepared for the presentation. But there was time to give one, an Aspen vase to the District Governor, Cesar.

3. Canotaje on the Canete: Rafting on the River

Our hotel offered rafting, but in town, Julio’s beat up brown 62 Toyopet with the raft strapped on top appealed to us more. On the drive up the river, Julio’s assistant sat in the trunk. The green Canete River had wonderful waves and Julio was a great guide. Also we took a dip in the rapids and then were dropped off back at the hotel.

4. Buenos Noches: a Gala Affair

The last night of the conference was a black tie and long dress event. There was wining and dining (and whiskeying and Pisco-ing) well into the night… and then into the morning. Now we could finally present those thank you gifts to our hosts and GSE representatives. These included Lucho, the GSE coordinator and also the host family for Melanie, as well as Dina who has done everything possible to make this trip meaningful.

5. Baille and Barely a Moment to Sit:

After some ceremonial salutations and grateful goodbyes, the dancing began and never did end. We all tore up the floor in our own sorts of styles and we were impressed to see Bart’s hidden talents come out.

OBSERVATIONS

1. Customary Costs:

Rafting was a little more expensive than we expected, but we learned that though Peruvian people make much less money, goods that are imported such as rafts can cost much more than in the States. This is thanks to high tariffs at customs coupled with the costs of the purchases themselves.

2. Grateful for Graciousness:

Consistently, the clubs have been open and generous with interesting conversation always included. The people of the clubs come from many walks of life. Some are well traveled. All are patient when we struggle with language.

Sometimes laughter is the best ice breaker. Often it starts with some attorney joke when they realize that half of our team is attorneys. They always love Renee’s stories of high Aspen mountain adventures; they are surprised by Melanie’s past travels and Bart’s social work. Perhaps the best crowd pleaser is Eric’s Peruvian connection. His father is Arequipan (a city in Peru) and Peruvians love to jest that Arequipa is really a country of its own.

3. Meat of the Matter

One club joked that it is not a Rotary Club meeting if the food is not chicken. Actually all kinds of meat have been served, and Peru is particularly proud of its fish. Since two members of this team are vegetarian, often the other two get double doses of whatever the delicacy. The two veggies get teased a bit, but we hold our own… (we also often carry our own… snacks with us.)

4. Dinner “Timing”

Timing of meals takes some getting used to. While breakfast and lunch are at morning and mid-day, often dinner doesn’t start until nearly midnight.

5. Besos Make Better Hellos:

Greetings here are not handshakes but a kiss on the cheek. Some of us think that this custom of kisses has the States’ sort of salutations beat “hand (shake)s down.”

6. Coloradoan Common Courtesy and Peruvian Presentation:

It may not be fair to compare since none of us frequent such Gala affairs in Colorado, but coming from relaxed Colorado where common courtesy tends to define custom, it seems that Lima’s Peruvians have more definite expectations in etiquette. From clothing to greetings to conversation, we try to be careful to honor their customs.

Posted 6:14 AM by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 5 OF 5 MAY

OBSERVATIONS

1. Billboards and Banners and Big Letters on Houses:

With Presidential elections coming up in the beginning of June, the race has come down to two candidates… Humala and Garcia. On our drive along the coast, big banners and billboards could be seen all along the road, and many local patriots had painted their houses with names of their preferred Presidential contenders.

ACTIVITIES:

1. Toast to Brazilian VIP Visitors:

The Big District Conference began today and honored guests Mario and Denise of Sao Paolo were there as representatives of the President of Rotary International. They drove to the conference with Melanie’s host family. But first, at the house, we partook of a toast. Melanie was impressed that these worldly guests could speak no less than four languages.

2. Distant District Conference: Lunahuana

The two hour road first along barren but dramatic beach-side mountains then took us inland into an oasis of lush river valley. Lunahuana was a rafting town full of unfilled off-season hotels. The warm drier-than-Lima climate and our third floor river-view rooms made it seem like a summer vacation. There we slept to the sound of the white water rapids.

3. Big Bands, Big Bangs

As our bus pulled in to the hotel, the parking lot band struck up a song. The music was only a start. After lots of business and lectures and dining and shows, this first night of the Conference went out with a bang. The scheduled “Midnight Surprise” was a fireworks show. The blasts were much closer to the buildings and to us than we ever would see in the States.

Posted 5:46 AM by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 4, 4 MAY

OBSERVATIONS

1. Time is Relative:

“Peruvian Standard Time” is an hour ahead of Colorado, but “Peruvian social time” is at least an hour behind. Peruvian punctuality runs on a relaxed clock and a date at eight won’t start until quite late. A contrast in culture was underscored by a conversation with a Denmark Rotarian, Dan. He was shocked by the slackness in schedule here.

2. Lima Homes are…Bars Out, Beauty In

Virtually every home here is surrounded by Bars. One Lima man who has been to a small town in the states said he was surprised to see that houses could be safe without bars. But inside, each home we have seen has been especially nice. Melanie’s first home had a large back yard, a sun-lit living room atrium, and a large enough living room for 14-person Rotary Club meeting.

ACTIVITIES

1. Meeting with RC Lima Sunrise: Familiar Faces, Familiar Tongue

Our only morning meeting was also the only English-speaking Rotary club in South America. There was an eclectic crowd from countries including Peru, the States, Australia, Russia, Denmark, and more. A fun surprise was seeing four familiar faces of our counterpart GSE's (Group Study Exchange) whom we had met in Colorado in 2005.

2. Bridges to Prosperity

The club’s guest speaker came from “Bridges to Prosperity,” a program to teach Peruvians to build safe bridges. Some Peruvians, currently separated by waterways, must walk days just to get to a market. Bridges can improve their mobility and economy and can alleviate their isolation.

3. Second Meeting of the Day: RC Lima Club… A Different Form of “Club Hopping”

At lunch with Club Lima, we gave our second Spanish language slide show and talk. When we were at a loss for words, they helped get us through with a few of their own. The big smiles and warm nods kept us feeling at home.

4. A World of Difference to a Child with Cleft Palates:

The guest speaker spoke of services and surgeries for children with cleft-palates. The important work made a world of difference to Peruvian children both in health and in sense of self.

5. Out and About in Barranco:

Free time is a commodity and we cashed in. On our first unplanned evening, we visited Eric’s Parents’ Barranco beach condo, and then we dined in town. At only 5:00, we beat both the crowds and the Bohemian style of life by more than four hours. But we still had good times speaking with sidewalk sellers and strolling toward the shore -- But before we got there, security stopped us and said we should save sea-side strolls for more safe sunny hours.

Posted 6:21 AM by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 3 OF 3 MAY

OBSERVATIONS

1. Mi Casa Es Tu Casa:

Our hosts have all made us feel at home. Mela´s family made sure to stock the fridge with “Melanie Foods” and to help with language, directions and driving, Renee´s made sure she had a handful of snacks to fuel the long days, Bart´s was a contact and friend to us all as she put plenty of hours into organizing our whole trip. Eric´s stayed up to take us to a Club Party after enduring a red-eye flight home from Miami, and he didn´t so much as yawn.

2. Software Soft Prices, Hardware High Prices, and Sometimes Heavy Handed Law

A little bit of reading offered more information about the electrical markets that we visited on 1 May where pirated software was extremely cheap but where hardware like computers were much more expensive. The pirated software, the only type that some people can afford here, is a problem for the Peruvian government. This is in part due to pressures from the copyright companies. The laws have grown more strict, and once in 2003, Peru steamrolled a collection of over 50K DVDs and CD´s.

3. Limans have Longevity:

Limans live long days and must not need much sleep. A typical day might include normal hours of rising for breakfast then early afternoon lunch, but then a long wait (often 8 hours) until dinner as late as 11:30. Such a mid-week midnight can pass right into morning before even a mention or act of adjourning.

ACTIVITIES:

1. Dios Mio, Dias Largo (Oh my, Long Days)

Our schedules have started from early “Sunrise Club” Meetings well into the night with late club celebrations.

2. Barranco and Miraflores with Monica and Sylvia

Miraflores was one of the sweeter sections of Lima. First there was tea at the upscale cliff top Larco Mar Mall overlooking the ocean. Then we drove the coastal road “Costa Verde” by some high end restaurants right on the coast or seated on piers. Then a stroll through the loveable bohemian section of town Barranco. There the restaurants were diverse and the artisans displayed their handmade work on walkway stands. There were summer houses, empty now, with a pathway that led to the sands. Inland, this path led to an old cathedral with a roof made of adobe… basically dried mud, which could only be used in this climate that gets almost no rain. The mud works well here, though as an anti-seismic material.

3. Huaca Pucllana

For those for whom old ruins of Peru conjure thoughts of hikes deep into the jungles and woods, there was an easy access surprise in the pre-Incan ruins of Pucllana right here in Lima. This 1600 year old ruins once saw 300 years of religion and politics with its 2500 person capacity plaza, its pyramid design built mortar-free of only mud and water in an earthquake-resistant design, has withstood many tremors and still stands somewhat refurbished, but never reconstructed.

The site, translated from Quechuan to mean “Play Place” has been a forum for sacrifices (once 27 women in the square). Also, orators spoke to masses in an acoustic amphitheater where downdrafts from the pyramid carried voices without microphones. People who lived around, not in, the buildings produced lamas and cotton, ceremonially eaten cactus, and Peruvian specialty food Guinea Pig.

4. Chiffa

A common culinary delight and affordable filler in Lima is Chiffa, a Chinese buffet with a Peruvian twist. We enjoyed a high end version with a few other Rotarians with a gorgeous buffet to please all palates at the top of a high-rise whose many floors were all health spa and gym.

5. Bingo

The women’s club loves Bingo and we joined for the last of a long night of games. We did not win, but that may be a blessing because our already large suitcases could have never held the televisions and irons and other appliances given as awards.

6. RC Pueblo Libre Meeting:

In the States, most all rotary club meetings are held either at breakfast or lunch. Here the more common are at dinner, and many last well into the night. Pueblo Libre´s club was small and like family. The cordial crowd was our first audience for our first ever public speaking in Spanish.

7. Totally Rotary, More Meetings After Midnight:

At midnight after the Pueblo Libre Club meeting ended, Melanie returned home to find her host family hosting yet another Rotary Club meeting… this after Pilar had spent much of her night at the Women’s Rotary Club event. We came to realize that in Peru, more than the states, dedication to Rotary Club by its members makes it more than just a club but a bit part of everyday life.

Posted 10:01 AM by MelanieandSteve
WHO AND WHAT ARE WE TALKING ABOUT?

These days, Melanie is in Peru with the Rotary Club. She was sent by District 5470, Southern Colorado, on the program called GSE, or Group Study Exchange, designed for cultural sharing between young professionals from different cultures. The team, Melanie, Eric, Renee, and Bart are staying in homes of Rotarians in Lima for the month or May. We are spending the days visiting important cultural and historic sites, attending Rotary Club Meetings where we will be making presentations about life in Colorado, and seeing places and professions in Peru that are counterparts to our own work.

This is being posted on Melanie´s Blog because the Internet cafes do not have software necessay to post on the Rotary web site, but these will eventually be posted on the Rotay web site as well, at http://www.rotary5470.org/--ToPeru2006.cfm That site also has an introduction to the members of the team including pictures and mini-bios.

Also, whenever Melanie gets access to USB ports or card readers, she will post pictures at photos.yahoo.com/melsteveph.

LA CLIMA IN LIMA ES POCO MASS EXTREME THAN WE EXPECTED:

In my first Blog from the air, did I say we did ``Spring´´ into ``Fall´´? Well, it still feels more like summer here. They tell us it is warmer than usual, and it is also humid. Renee was smart enough to pack a slew of summer skirts, but Melanie, sweltering in her suit pants soon learned to appreciate the virtues of over-packing. Alternatively, she became aware of the blessings of city-block-sized markets in Lima full of forgotten `necessities`.

THANKS TO FRANK, A FINE DAY IN THE CENTER OF TOWN:

Frank N. met us today for a cruise through Lima Central for a vocational culture day. We drove through Plaza de Armas with its grand Cathedral and Palacio Gobierno, the Government Palace of the President. We also saw the Palacio Justicio, to appease the two lawyers in the team, Melanie and Eric. We strolled through the electrical markets on the Wilson Street and the `everything markets´ of Polvos Azules (Blue Powder). A couple cell phones, skirts, shorts, and a new wallet later, the team was well equipt and we were off to Dina C. S.´s coffee shop, `Starsoles´... (The name means more if you realize that peruvian money is call `soles´, their bucks...) We were treated to a delightful relaxing lunch including tradional Peruvian Arequipan salad ``Soltera con Queso,´´ a Peruvian traditional drink made from maiz called Chicha Morada, Pasta, and ice cream.

MILKING THE MACHINE: LA VACCA MECANICA:

Martin S., Dina´s husband, joined us and taught us about the Vacca Mecanica, (mechanical cow) the metal machine that Rotarians hope to use to produce 100L of soy milk in ne hour from only two kilos of soy beans to get much needed proteins to many Peruvian children who cannot afford meat or milk. We sampled the sweetened version along with bread made from its by-product and both put vegetarians Melanie and Renee into seventh heaven.

NO BLUFFING, LOVELY BLUFFS:

We walked off our lunch on the grassy cliffs over the beach where flowers were planted in shapes of the Nazca Lines. The cool breeze, almost too cool, was a break from the balmy day.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY AND FELIZ CUMPLEANOS

The night brough a birthday party, not for a person, but for a club. San Borja Rotary club was now 31 and after much ceremony and business, the crowd stood to sing ``Happy Birthday´´ to itself. Dinner was served at 11:30 p.m.. We visitors who still have not caught up with the lack of sleep in days prep-preceding the trip were acutely aware of the differences in Peruvian Circadian Rhythm, both in sleep and in stomachs. Somehow, we still had time to journal...