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This web log is for you who want to know where we are and what we've done on our world trip.
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Wednesday, May 17, 2006
Posted
11:03 PM
by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 14 OF 14 MAY: MOTHER’S DAY
THOUGHTS:
1. On Travel
"One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things." –- Henry Miller
2. On Mothers
A mother is not a person to lean on, but a person to make leaning unnecessary. - Dorothy Canfield Fisher
ACTIVITIES:
1. Mother’s Morning:
Relaxed Mother’s day felt like a holiday should. There was no GSE itinerary, so some of us started with celebration brunches. Some of our caring hosts have felt practically like new mothers (Renee’s Doroty even refers to Renee as her ‘hija’ – daughter), but Eric actually observed Mother’s Day with his very own Grand-mom (“Grandmother’s Day”).
2. Monica’s Monterrico Surco Patio Bar-BQ
Renee and Melanie went to Monterrico to join Nico (Renee’s surfing friend) for his Mother’s Day party. We had never seen Lima life style like this. In this tight knit family of mothers, grandmothers, cousins, and kids, the warmth so abounded that they took us right in. Monica, Nico’s mother, had a wonderful home with impeccably decorated interior, impressive impressionistic paintings, horses and pets in a beautiful yard, and a patio that was perfect for parties.
OBSERVATIONS:
1. Climate Circa Monterrico Surco: What a Difference a 20 Minutes Can Make:
It only took 20 minutes to drive to Monica’s hometown, Monterrico. Still in Lima, but slightly up a hill, the climate was surprisingly different. Downtown Lima is usually gray. Monterrico stays sunny and bright. It was also less humid and quickly got cold at night.
2. Peru Peros (Dogs): Hounds Abound All Around Lima:
Streets of Peru sport many stray mutts, particularly in less developed places. In the dirt streets of Pando, pups snoozed in the sun, and at Lunahuana, many mutts chased Melanie on her morning run. There are also lovely loved ones like Huskar, a lamb-like Rottweiller at Monica’s home. One man at the party who had traveled to the States pointed out that Peru has a different dog taste. People who have pets in Peru often pick Schnauzers. Pet people in the States go for the Golden Retrievers.
TO OUR MOM’S, HAPPY MOTHER’S DAY WITH LOVE
Posted
6:21 PM
by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 13 OF 13 MAY
THOUGHTS
1. On Travel:
"A journey of a thousand miles must begin with a single step." -- Lao Tzu
2. On Mother’s Day Tomorrow:
"It is not what you do for your children but what you have taught them to do for themselves that will make them successful human beings." - Ann Landers
ACTIVITIES
1. Saturday Day Show / Saturday Night Live
Saturday morning, Bart toured the National Museum. Melanie explored her neighborhood, and then at home partook of play dough pizzas with her host’s five-year-old son, Mauricio. Eric saw his grandma, and Renee did some shopping. It was good to start slow since Saturday night would be late.
2. Work and Play at the Pub: A New Professional Experience for Our Professional Exchange:
Colonial Rotary Club hopeful and Melanie’s host, Rocio showed us today’s young professional exchange “Presentation.” Entrepreneurial Rocio, a new business owner, had a Bar in Barranco, the best night life in town. Her start-up pub was still a month young, so to iron out any wrinkles, she only opened the doors now to her private invitations. The word 'Pub' means “Public House,” so etymology-minded Melanie mulled this private pub’s misnomer over many too many times.
While Rocio set up, Melanie meandered through the markets. She struck up some conversations and ambled along fragrant sidewalks with bar-BQs, food stalls, and fun atmosphere. Saturday night in Barranco bubbled with life. Renee joined the party before long.
3. Making a Living on Night Life:
The Bar business worked well for Rocio. Her three-room establishment offered options for all tastes from loud music back room to coffee shop style couches, to a casual open air patio. By midnight, Rocio was worried since the business, though full, was not perfectly packed. But before three, the dance floor dancers were squished like sardines. Melanie cut out early, but the insatiable crowd stayed until nearly dawn.
OBSERVATIONS:
1. Traffic Takes Getting Used To:
Traffic in Lima takes getting used to. One Rotarian, Frank, opted out entirely by hiring a full-time driver. Only about thirteen kilometers (about 6 miles) across, Lima commutes can take well over an hour.
…Which may lead to another “Blog-Thought:” "Travel is glamorous only in retrospect." -Paul Theroux
Posted
4:22 PM
by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 12 OF 12 MAY
THOUGHTS:
1. Travel:
"Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness."-Mark Twain
2. Mothers Day Coming:
“The most important thing a father can do for his children is to love their mother.” - Author Unknown
ACTIVITIES:
1. Atelio Castagnino of Callao Club Takes us to Fort Real Felipe:
Callao Club member, Atelio Castagnino took us to Fortilesa Real Felipe, the most important Spanish fort protecting gold against pirates before Peru’s independence. Mid-peninsula, it was surrounded by water.
A. Claustrophobia in the Carcel (Prison).
Envision a two-foot-wide prison. Castle-like, with canons atop high stone reinforcements, the fort had three towers including one with a prison inside. The dark stairwell wound up to a two-foot side stretch of sealed off corridor called a prison. It was 250 feet long, it never grew wider, and it held seventy to eighty political prisoners at once. There were no bathrooms and and imates got bread and water just twice a week. The winding cell wrapped around the more spacious watchman’s room from where eavesdropping guards gleaned information from prisoners’ gossip.
B. The Room of Answers (And Heroic Decisions):
The Room of Answers was a tribute to a brave set of soldiers who chose to face near certain death and to fight the many times more powerful Chileans. Each Peruvian did die, but one Argentinean survived and went on later to be president of his country.
2. “Mother’s Friday” Lunch at the Club Callao Meeting:
The Friday before Mother’s Day was as big as Mom’s Day itself. Children’s schools put on live shows, there were lunch celebrations, and at night we saw music and dance. Today, at a waterfront restaurant Rana Verde, women were in half the seats at the all-men’s Callao Rotary Club meeting. Mother’s and wives were the club’s honored guests.
At the meeting, men took the floor for readings about mothers in general, testimonials about their own, sad moments in memorial, and even some poetry and song. For this club’s celebration, “Mother’s Day” was more like “Women’s Day” as the men also presented gifts to non-mothers, Melanie and Renee.
3. “Mother’s Night”:
Jaime, from our 9 May La Molina Club meeting made Mother’s Day even more memorable. Jaime and Carla’s beautiful home in the La Molina hills above Lima was nestled in a large grassy yard. With a drier climate thanks to the hills, their patio was perfect for a summer party. Peruvian aperitifs included Pisco Sour and Algarobina (a rich brown bean based drink.) There was Peru’s pride in soda pop, Inka Cola, and only for Men there was whiskey. The Mother’s Night culinary highlight was a community pan of Paella about three feet wide. The Spanish rice dish can come several ways. Presentation is important, and this beautiful work was adorned with sea shells.
It was good that Jaime and Carla had a big yard and nice neighbors because live music and dancing went well into the morning. Mother’s Friday-night was over by more than four hours before anyone there headed home.
Monday, May 15, 2006
Posted
8:12 PM
by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 11 OF 11 MAY
THOUGHT:
"Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living." –- Miriam Beard
ACTIVITIES
1. Daily Day:
While generally the GSE Schedule is tight, we have had lots of cancellations. Today one brought us another free morning. Eric visited relatives. Melanie found a gym and Enzo the owner let her in free. Bart saw a renowned author lecture at the Lima Club And Renee was recuperating from some bad food or water.
2. Pay it Forward: Past GSE Member Takes us to his Work, Telefonica
A former GSE to New York, Javier, brought us to his work at high tech Telefonica. The third largest company in the world, Telefonica started in Spain, but has a high concentration in Lima. The PowerPoint presentation in the small multimedia theater was impressive.
3. Voluntarios: A Creative Way to Contribute:
The pub Voluntarios, owned in part by Rotary members, came with the best pub perks like friendly service, comfy couches, and tapas (snacks), but what made it unique was that food and drink service was selfless. The staff at Voluntarios was all volunteer, so for prices comparable to a regular restaurant, a patron could contribute to a worthier cause. Voluntarios raises and donates about $600 a month.
4. A Taste of the Town, Rocio Style:
After Voluntarios, Melanie’s high energy host Rocio and her friend Flaca were ready for more. Near the middle of the night, the timing was right, since Limans do not get started until late. They promised to get us home early, and at 3:00 a.m. they probably thought that they did. Others joined us including Carlos Davila, a 2005 GSE to Colorado.
Our eclectic sampling ranged from mellow live music hall to table top dancers’ venue. As a last special treat, a local Peruvian place featured the African-Peruvian dance ‘Alcatraz.’ One dancer wore a paper tail pinned to her back while the other attempted to light it on fire. When the first moved her hips fast enough, the flame would not take to the elusive end of her tail.
OBSERVATIONS:
1. Rotary Comparisons:
From our exposure to Rotary there are certain norms in the States: for instance the “Flag Salute” or the “Four Part Test,” or the saying “Service Above Self.” Peruvians do not pledge allegiance, but the sentiment is certainly there as most clubs stand up at their meeting to applaud their flag. At meetings many good thoughts are displayed, but the “Four Part Test” has only been posted at one. Peruvians have a saying similar to “Service Above Self,” “Dar de Sí antes de pensar en Sí,” which means something like give of yourself before you think of yourself. But we have been told that their mantras may change with a vote.
Sunday, May 14, 2006
Posted
8:46 PM
by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 10 OF 10 MAY
ACTIVITIES:
1. A Morning in the Life:
Among our team, we covered many aspects of a daily life with excursions like shopping, Starbuck’s and a visit to grandma’s by Eric. Renee got a grand city tour by her hosts who took the day off. Eric and Melanie accompanied Rocio to the huge Jockey Mall (the first mall in Lima), a high-tech sparkly place with stereos blasting and HD TV’s playing. Surprisingly, it was just as expensive as home and had lots of familiar brands.
2. RC Monterrico Surco Meeting:
At night fall, David Sobrevilla brought us to the small Club Monterrico Surco. Their meeting included a tribute to a volunteer fireman who had saved a man’s life, two visiting firefighters, and a ‘thank you’ to the club for funding a two-year-old girl’s medical heart treatment. Lastly, they aptly described our cultural exchange as one way that Rotary can bring “Peace to the world.”
OBSERVATIONS:
1. Spanish Influence in Latin American Life:
Peru declared its independence from Spain in 1891, but some of the spirit of Spain still lives on. A tortilla is not the flat bread that we know in Colorado, but a thick patty of potato and eggs. Also, Spanish Paella rice dish is popular. In Spain, often children live with their parents well into adult life. Here as well, fully employed ‘thirty-somethings’ still commonly stay in the nest. Then, of course there are ‘tapas,’ free hors deurves style snacks at some restaurants and bars, and a bent for beginning and ending the night life out late. We have read that there is Spain’s ‘siesta,’ but that has been denied and we have not experienced it ourselves.
Posted
8:41 PM
by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 9 OF 9 MAY
ACTIVITIES
1. PRIDE AND PROSPERITY: SCHOOL PROJECTS IN MANCHAI AND LA MOLINA
A. Morning Started in Manchai:
Club La Molina Member Jorge Carrasco showed us two of the club’s most important accomplishments. Twenty minutes east of Central Lima on the other side of the desert hills was Manchai, a part of Lima with low resources. Here, shanty style shelters had neither roads nor resources for water.
a. The Makings of a Town Like Manchai:
We learned that towns like Manchai start out with ‘Squatters’ who set up flimsy shelters. At first they are not welcomed, but after a long refusing to leave, they might eventually get government recognition. Then government ‘services’ begin. At a snail pace, services are start with the ‘Pyramid of Needs’, such as light. In this government where not even emergency services like fire trucks are subsidized, by the state, one can imagine that good schools don’t get speedy priority.
b. Manchai School Before Rotary Club’s Assistance:
In Manchai, a public ‘school’ plot did exist pre-Rotary. It consisted of two grass matt rooms, one teacher who ran back and forth between each to teach ninety kids K-6 with no water, no bathroom, no playground, all next to a dangerous cliff with unstable rocks teetering on top.
c. Rotary’s Work in Manchai:
Rotary worked with town parents to build an actual building. So far it has four rooms. Two more are under construction. Now there are four teachers (one is a volunteer) and a principal. The bathroom with a water tank is the best lieu in town. A retaining wall will be built to protect the play area, and as a special luxury, a set of soccer goals was donated.
d. Golden Children of Manchai:
The kids in this school overflowed with wonderful love. As we walked up, six year old Maria spontaneously gave Melanie a hug. Maria made quite an ambassador of Manchai with her intelligent clear communication and curious spirit.
In one classroom, the kids sung us a song and then smothered Bart’s and Melanie’s cheeks with wet kisses. The courteous children never asked for nor expected a thing, but we wished we could give them the world.
e. Q and A with the Kids:
Melanie asked the kids about school. They energetically informed her of their favorite subjects: math, art, and reading. They showed her their workbooks and told her of their favorite reads. While they talked, they were working on painting their Mother’s Day gifts.
f. Important Parent Involvement:
Outside the classrooms were a group of mothers and family. Many had taken part in the building of the school with their own elbow grease. They remained ready to help out as needed.
B. La Molina, the Second School Project of the Day:
a. Exceptional School for Exceptional Students:
We visited a second Rotary school in a wealthier La Molina. “La Escuela De Ninos Exceptionales Rotary Club La Molina,” of 1990 taught 97 special needs children from ages two months to 18 years old. Along with general education, there were trade courses including gardening, vending, and shop. There was even a pool. We watched their rehearsal for the upcoming Mother’s Day show.
C. A Very Small Something, For Those Deserving Something Big:
For these children who touched us so deeply, we gave only a token. We had several boxes of our GSE team pencils which we turned over to help if it could in both schools.
2. We Were Treated to Cuisine a La Molina:
The beautiful gated Rinconada Country Club where we had lunch with Jorge and two other club members Rubin and Anibal was a contrast from the poverty we had seen. As we were treated to the finest of local cuisine, we felt blessed by our fortunate lives.
3. La Molina Club Meeting at Night:
We returned later to the same club with member Jaime for the 9 p.m. meeting. The gracious all-men’s’ club made us at home. Our low-tech presentation without our usual PowerPoint projections made for a more intimate group setting.
4. Club Sponsored Projects:
Other service projects on that clubs plate included Peruvian “Adopt a School” program, much like a Cambodian one which Melanie discussed in her presentation. Like with our earlier Club Lima Sunrise, they were also involved with Bridges to Prosperity program. They had a Rotary Olympics planned for a fundraiser.
OBSERVATIONS:
1. MANCHAI: NEW PERSPECTIVE ON THE PRESIDENTIAL ELECTIONS
For the presidential elections coming in June, more wealthy Lima people are nearly unanimously for more free-market-minded Alan Garcia, or more accurately ‘against’ his left-leaning opponent. But people without means in places like Manchai are almost all for Humala. For us, seeing Manchai and its low living conditions made more clear why this divide.
Often, wealthy people tell us that the poor peoples’ opinion comes from political ignorance and lack of education. Our visit to Manchai gave more substances to their reasons. Nationalistic Leftist Peruvian property regulations could be the only glimmer of hope to which they can cling.
2. Volunteers Emerge in Emergencies:
In Peru, one of the most taxing jobs out there is not funded by government taxes. The fire departments and emergency response are 100% volunteer. Not even the trucks are subsidized by taxes. In a shanty town like Manchai, one has to wonder whether they have any hope of help if they need it.
3. No Benchmark of Standards of Living:
Among those who have money, like with apples and oranges, Peruvian and U.S. standards of living can not be compared. For example in Lima, maid service is not an elite luxury. It is so common that all of our host homes have employed live-ins, even single income single parents living in condos. On the other hand, here, people with personal computers often have dinosaur set ups with dial up connections, and pretty much no one has washing machines. Thus, “living standards” can only be called different. However, it does appear that many Peruvians work a little less hours, have a little more time on their hands, and need a little less sleep.
4. Conflict of Emotion About Maids: Strange to Be Served:
To some who are not used to it, the master-servant relationship with a maid can feel almost cast-ish. While some find it uncomfortable, to the maid it may be the only hope of employment, of shelter, creature comforts of a home, and a little bit of money. We are told that most are single, and if one gets pregnant, she is often kicked out. Though we have heard of households who have let them stay on, living in the home, maid, baby, and all.
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