Posted 11:17 AM by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 8 OF 8 MAY

ACTIVITIES:

1. Various Vocations Day:

Today the team split up for field trips in our own fields of work.

a. Renee Spa Day:

A first we were jealous that Renee, a masseuse, would be basking in her sort of “Work Experience” with a spa day. She had massages and other alternative treatments like acupuncture in store.

b. Bart and the Social Work Scene:

While a massage would have been a nice perk, the rest of our exchanges were educational too. Bart, our social worker, visited dream foundation with its mechanical soy milk making cows.

c. Eric and Melanie Learned about Lima Law:

Melanie and Eric, lawyers, learned a lot from Gisela, the Secretary of the Colegio of Notarios. A Peruvian notary is not what it is in the states. Here, their stamp is not just a witness to a signatory’s identity. A notary’s stamp means that the notary has researched the law, read the contents of contracts, consulted the parties, and given advice. Notaries are highly respected attorneys. Of nearly 40,000 attorneys in Lima, only 133 are notaries, and it has been six years since the last one was inaugurated. Notaries are neutral and may have no other jobs nor may they practice in any other places than the town of their office.

d. A Little More About Lawyers in Peru:

After law school, would-be lawyers can become licensed either by oral exam or by thesis. Either is a lot like a dissertation. Once they pass, they can practice all over Peru. But to litigate, they must still get licensed locally with the Collegio of Abogados in each city (like a State Bar in the States.) Here, attorneys can also go for advanced degrees, either masters or PhDs are available.

2. Melanie’s Move to a New Host Home:

Melanie got a new host, Rocio, an applicant to Rotary Club Colonial. Rocio stepped in on a single night’s notice after the originally scheduled host had to cancel.

3. After Vocational Day, Vacational Night:

Vocational day led to Vacational night, relaxing with Dina and Martin at their local pizza place. Renee, seduced by more spa treatment, decided to skip pizza, but the rest of us relished the relaxing atmosphere. Then, when Eric and Melanie piled in Rocio’s car “to go home”, calling it a night didn’t feel quite right. The three spent more time on the town. Rocio’s classy restaurant pick flaunted fine leather couches, fun conversation, good service, cervezas, snacks and smoothies. New fruity flavors included maracuya (papaya) and aguaymanto (like blackberry, but not).

OBSERVATIONS:

1. Our Spanish keeps coming. At times it is laborious, and at others it comes easily. But after a while, it can get somewhat exhausting. At the Colegio of Notaries, two hours of concentrating on comprehending complicated concepts of law caused Melanie a tired cabeza (head).

2. Comfortable with Compartir de Comida (sharing of food):

In some cultures, a person’s plate is private. Here, people quite comfortably compartir (share). There appears to be no taboo in food swapping, so as they say “when in Rome”… amongst our team, veggies and meat have become culinary commodities of trade.

Posted 11:08 AM by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 7 OF 7 MAY

ACTIVITIES:

1. The Botega Beat:

Lunahuana has lots of Pisco producing cellars. Yesterday, we started out on a tour of four, but found one was sufficient, so we stopped. Still it was fun to see barefoot girls stomping in a bin full of grapes “I Love Lucy” style, and to stroll through the subterranean cellars.

2. Relishing the Remainder of Riverfront Life On our last Lunahuana morning:

A. Rays by the River:

The unscheduled simplicity was nice. Some of us saw sunrise and some slept off last night’s gala. Eric, Melanie and Renee found a spot by the river for relaxing and reading and catching some rays.

B. Hopping on horses:

Rene, Eric, and Melanie hooked up with exchange student Miyuki. We piled into a tiny trike taxi which hemmed and hawed up the hill to a horse stable. There we hopped in the saddle and strode to some pre-Incan ruins. Eric, the Equine law lawyer, was especially aware of a lack of love, food, and water thatt these animals endured. On one cliff-side trail, Miyuki`s horse and Melanie’s unsociable stallion started to fight – our child guide’s only solution was to throw stones at the steeds. Still, we survived unscathed. The ruins were unimpressive, but we enjoyed the valley view from a summit.

C. Picked up in a Pick-Up:

After the horse ride, a highlight was the hitch hike back aback a local’s extra long cab. On the road, wind blown and bumpy, we maneuvered our way through an entourage of sheep and goats.

D. Last Lunch in Lunahuana:

Though many other guests left in the morning for Lima, our last Lunahuana lunch still came in conference style. There were Peruvian dancing devils, pan pipe playing musicians, gifts of local wines and bottles of Pisco, and then we were back on the bus back to Lima.

3. Last night with Lucho, Pilar, Jose Luis and Nadia:

Melanie’s host family met her in Lima for a last family supper since she would be changing homes in the morning. San Antonio’s Restaurant, a very “Melanie Style” place had a menu of multiple veggie selections.

OBSERVATIONS:

1. Litigia through a Lawyers Eyes:

While the States may be seen as excessively litigious, there may also be such a thing as too little. Lima, much less litigious, might be a case study for comparison. Some manifestations of less litigations included:

---The less than four foot deep pool with a two-story slide might have been deeper if law suits were a threat.
---The pool-side patio had super slick tile so that with wet feet we could barely walk without slipping.
---There were no ADA regulations for our rooms on a steep handicap-unfriendly hill.
---But refreshingly, there was a freedom from cumbersome disclaimers. In both rafting and horse riding, we simply hopped in/on. There were no acknowledgements nor waiving of rights.

2. Patriotic about Pisco:

Pisco is one of Peru’s proud productions. It is a 95% Brandy made from grapes. It is strong but is normally served as Pisco Sour, a luscious smoothy from lime juice, whipped egg whites, and sugar.

3. Dahli Llama in Lima:

While we were in Lunahuana, the Dahli Llama was in Lima. We saw no pomp and circumstance and in this mostly Catholic country, some people whom Melanie talked to did not even know who he was. His Lima stop was short lived and by morning he had flown to Cusco.

Posted 9:49 AM by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 6 OF 6 MAY

ACTIVITIES:

1. Sunrise and Shine

To the backdrop of big sunrise on sharp crests in the river valley, Melanie brought in her Birthday with a run. It was holistic as it was heart healthy. In town, she met Julio, a fellow early riser who would take us rafting later in the day. Both Melanie and Renee enjoyed morning exercises in this peaceful and picturesque pueblo.

2. Temprano Para Estar Tarde: Early to be Late for our Time in the Spotlight

On the schedule, we were set to make presentations at 11:30 a.m., so an hour early when we arrived well before 10:25, we were unpleasantly surprised to be told we were “on in five.” (…our slide show equipment should take fifteen minutes just to set up!). A frenzy of technical troubles, scrambled schedules, and idiom issues aside, we got through it thanks to a gracious crowd. Though thanks to tight timing, we were sad to be cut off from giving gifts of gratitude we had prepared for the presentation. But there was time to give one, an Aspen vase to the District Governor, Cesar.

3. Canotaje on the Canete: Rafting on the River

Our hotel offered rafting, but in town, Julio’s beat up brown 62 Toyopet with the raft strapped on top appealed to us more. On the drive up the river, Julio’s assistant sat in the trunk. The green Canete River had wonderful waves and Julio was a great guide. Also we took a dip in the rapids and then were dropped off back at the hotel.

4. Buenos Noches: a Gala Affair

The last night of the conference was a black tie and long dress event. There was wining and dining (and whiskeying and Pisco-ing) well into the night… and then into the morning. Now we could finally present those thank you gifts to our hosts and GSE representatives. These included Lucho, the GSE coordinator and also the host family for Melanie, as well as Dina who has done everything possible to make this trip meaningful.

5. Baille and Barely a Moment to Sit:

After some ceremonial salutations and grateful goodbyes, the dancing began and never did end. We all tore up the floor in our own sorts of styles and we were impressed to see Bart’s hidden talents come out.

OBSERVATIONS

1. Customary Costs:

Rafting was a little more expensive than we expected, but we learned that though Peruvian people make much less money, goods that are imported such as rafts can cost much more than in the States. This is thanks to high tariffs at customs coupled with the costs of the purchases themselves.

2. Grateful for Graciousness:

Consistently, the clubs have been open and generous with interesting conversation always included. The people of the clubs come from many walks of life. Some are well traveled. All are patient when we struggle with language.

Sometimes laughter is the best ice breaker. Often it starts with some attorney joke when they realize that half of our team is attorneys. They always love Renee’s stories of high Aspen mountain adventures; they are surprised by Melanie’s past travels and Bart’s social work. Perhaps the best crowd pleaser is Eric’s Peruvian connection. His father is Arequipan (a city in Peru) and Peruvians love to jest that Arequipa is really a country of its own.

3. Meat of the Matter

One club joked that it is not a Rotary Club meeting if the food is not chicken. Actually all kinds of meat have been served, and Peru is particularly proud of its fish. Since two members of this team are vegetarian, often the other two get double doses of whatever the delicacy. The two veggies get teased a bit, but we hold our own… (we also often carry our own… snacks with us.)

4. Dinner “Timing”

Timing of meals takes some getting used to. While breakfast and lunch are at morning and mid-day, often dinner doesn’t start until nearly midnight.

5. Besos Make Better Hellos:

Greetings here are not handshakes but a kiss on the cheek. Some of us think that this custom of kisses has the States’ sort of salutations beat “hand (shake)s down.”

6. Coloradoan Common Courtesy and Peruvian Presentation:

It may not be fair to compare since none of us frequent such Gala affairs in Colorado, but coming from relaxed Colorado where common courtesy tends to define custom, it seems that Lima’s Peruvians have more definite expectations in etiquette. From clothing to greetings to conversation, we try to be careful to honor their customs.

Posted 6:14 AM by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 5 OF 5 MAY

OBSERVATIONS

1. Billboards and Banners and Big Letters on Houses:

With Presidential elections coming up in the beginning of June, the race has come down to two candidates… Humala and Garcia. On our drive along the coast, big banners and billboards could be seen all along the road, and many local patriots had painted their houses with names of their preferred Presidential contenders.

ACTIVITIES:

1. Toast to Brazilian VIP Visitors:

The Big District Conference began today and honored guests Mario and Denise of Sao Paolo were there as representatives of the President of Rotary International. They drove to the conference with Melanie’s host family. But first, at the house, we partook of a toast. Melanie was impressed that these worldly guests could speak no less than four languages.

2. Distant District Conference: Lunahuana

The two hour road first along barren but dramatic beach-side mountains then took us inland into an oasis of lush river valley. Lunahuana was a rafting town full of unfilled off-season hotels. The warm drier-than-Lima climate and our third floor river-view rooms made it seem like a summer vacation. There we slept to the sound of the white water rapids.

3. Big Bands, Big Bangs

As our bus pulled in to the hotel, the parking lot band struck up a song. The music was only a start. After lots of business and lectures and dining and shows, this first night of the Conference went out with a bang. The scheduled “Midnight Surprise” was a fireworks show. The blasts were much closer to the buildings and to us than we ever would see in the States.

Posted 5:46 AM by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 4, 4 MAY

OBSERVATIONS

1. Time is Relative:

“Peruvian Standard Time” is an hour ahead of Colorado, but “Peruvian social time” is at least an hour behind. Peruvian punctuality runs on a relaxed clock and a date at eight won’t start until quite late. A contrast in culture was underscored by a conversation with a Denmark Rotarian, Dan. He was shocked by the slackness in schedule here.

2. Lima Homes are…Bars Out, Beauty In

Virtually every home here is surrounded by Bars. One Lima man who has been to a small town in the states said he was surprised to see that houses could be safe without bars. But inside, each home we have seen has been especially nice. Melanie’s first home had a large back yard, a sun-lit living room atrium, and a large enough living room for 14-person Rotary Club meeting.

ACTIVITIES

1. Meeting with RC Lima Sunrise: Familiar Faces, Familiar Tongue

Our only morning meeting was also the only English-speaking Rotary club in South America. There was an eclectic crowd from countries including Peru, the States, Australia, Russia, Denmark, and more. A fun surprise was seeing four familiar faces of our counterpart GSE's (Group Study Exchange) whom we had met in Colorado in 2005.

2. Bridges to Prosperity

The club’s guest speaker came from “Bridges to Prosperity,” a program to teach Peruvians to build safe bridges. Some Peruvians, currently separated by waterways, must walk days just to get to a market. Bridges can improve their mobility and economy and can alleviate their isolation.

3. Second Meeting of the Day: RC Lima Club… A Different Form of “Club Hopping”

At lunch with Club Lima, we gave our second Spanish language slide show and talk. When we were at a loss for words, they helped get us through with a few of their own. The big smiles and warm nods kept us feeling at home.

4. A World of Difference to a Child with Cleft Palates:

The guest speaker spoke of services and surgeries for children with cleft-palates. The important work made a world of difference to Peruvian children both in health and in sense of self.

5. Out and About in Barranco:

Free time is a commodity and we cashed in. On our first unplanned evening, we visited Eric’s Parents’ Barranco beach condo, and then we dined in town. At only 5:00, we beat both the crowds and the Bohemian style of life by more than four hours. But we still had good times speaking with sidewalk sellers and strolling toward the shore -- But before we got there, security stopped us and said we should save sea-side strolls for more safe sunny hours.

Posted 6:21 AM by MelanieandSteve
BLOG 3 OF 3 MAY

OBSERVATIONS

1. Mi Casa Es Tu Casa:

Our hosts have all made us feel at home. Mela´s family made sure to stock the fridge with “Melanie Foods” and to help with language, directions and driving, Renee´s made sure she had a handful of snacks to fuel the long days, Bart´s was a contact and friend to us all as she put plenty of hours into organizing our whole trip. Eric´s stayed up to take us to a Club Party after enduring a red-eye flight home from Miami, and he didn´t so much as yawn.

2. Software Soft Prices, Hardware High Prices, and Sometimes Heavy Handed Law

A little bit of reading offered more information about the electrical markets that we visited on 1 May where pirated software was extremely cheap but where hardware like computers were much more expensive. The pirated software, the only type that some people can afford here, is a problem for the Peruvian government. This is in part due to pressures from the copyright companies. The laws have grown more strict, and once in 2003, Peru steamrolled a collection of over 50K DVDs and CD´s.

3. Limans have Longevity:

Limans live long days and must not need much sleep. A typical day might include normal hours of rising for breakfast then early afternoon lunch, but then a long wait (often 8 hours) until dinner as late as 11:30. Such a mid-week midnight can pass right into morning before even a mention or act of adjourning.

ACTIVITIES:

1. Dios Mio, Dias Largo (Oh my, Long Days)

Our schedules have started from early “Sunrise Club” Meetings well into the night with late club celebrations.

2. Barranco and Miraflores with Monica and Sylvia

Miraflores was one of the sweeter sections of Lima. First there was tea at the upscale cliff top Larco Mar Mall overlooking the ocean. Then we drove the coastal road “Costa Verde” by some high end restaurants right on the coast or seated on piers. Then a stroll through the loveable bohemian section of town Barranco. There the restaurants were diverse and the artisans displayed their handmade work on walkway stands. There were summer houses, empty now, with a pathway that led to the sands. Inland, this path led to an old cathedral with a roof made of adobe… basically dried mud, which could only be used in this climate that gets almost no rain. The mud works well here, though as an anti-seismic material.

3. Huaca Pucllana

For those for whom old ruins of Peru conjure thoughts of hikes deep into the jungles and woods, there was an easy access surprise in the pre-Incan ruins of Pucllana right here in Lima. This 1600 year old ruins once saw 300 years of religion and politics with its 2500 person capacity plaza, its pyramid design built mortar-free of only mud and water in an earthquake-resistant design, has withstood many tremors and still stands somewhat refurbished, but never reconstructed.

The site, translated from Quechuan to mean “Play Place” has been a forum for sacrifices (once 27 women in the square). Also, orators spoke to masses in an acoustic amphitheater where downdrafts from the pyramid carried voices without microphones. People who lived around, not in, the buildings produced lamas and cotton, ceremonially eaten cactus, and Peruvian specialty food Guinea Pig.

4. Chiffa

A common culinary delight and affordable filler in Lima is Chiffa, a Chinese buffet with a Peruvian twist. We enjoyed a high end version with a few other Rotarians with a gorgeous buffet to please all palates at the top of a high-rise whose many floors were all health spa and gym.

5. Bingo

The women’s club loves Bingo and we joined for the last of a long night of games. We did not win, but that may be a blessing because our already large suitcases could have never held the televisions and irons and other appliances given as awards.

6. RC Pueblo Libre Meeting:

In the States, most all rotary club meetings are held either at breakfast or lunch. Here the more common are at dinner, and many last well into the night. Pueblo Libre´s club was small and like family. The cordial crowd was our first audience for our first ever public speaking in Spanish.

7. Totally Rotary, More Meetings After Midnight:

At midnight after the Pueblo Libre Club meeting ended, Melanie returned home to find her host family hosting yet another Rotary Club meeting… this after Pilar had spent much of her night at the Women’s Rotary Club event. We came to realize that in Peru, more than the states, dedication to Rotary Club by its members makes it more than just a club but a bit part of everyday life.