Melanie and Steve, Around the World in __ Days

Thursday, March 03, 2005


CASTRO TO CHAITEN, 14 to 21 February (written 02 Mar.)

SAILING (DRIVING ETC) THE SEVEN C´S: We bussed it south to CASTRO town, on CHILOE Island, for a trip to CUCAO, before ferrying in the CHANNEL, to CHAITEN with it´s views of CORCOVAN mountain, all in CHILE.

CASTRO: This small seaside village overlooking the channel was a perfect hub for our Chiloe Island explorations. Going ``across town`` on the map, meant walking a couple of blocks. Yet there were all the conveniences of a large city mixed among cute restaurants and pubs and ocean view stopping points.

WALK ALONG THE PALIFITOS: One of Castro´s unique features are it´s rows of Palifitos, homes built on stilts over the channel water. From the road side, they look like normal homes, but from the water side, they hover over the water and neighbors can visit canal-style from row boats. We admired them during a Valentine´s day walk along the shores.

LOVING MEXICAN FOOD ON THE DAY OF LOVE: On Valentines day, we said goodbye to friend Kari and planned to celebrate the holiday with Matt and Helen at a nice restaurant with live music. But the decision to cancel those plans was unanimous when we saw comida Mexicana. Good Mexican food is rare in South America. Mr. Gollo´s, the little hole in the wall place with the get-to-know-you owner might not have looked like your typical Valentines day romantic spot, but to us it was a peak of perfection for a peaked appetite.

PLANS EVOLVED WHERE EVOLUTION BEGAN: Our bus ride west to Cucao across Chiloe Island followed the same route that Charles Darwin rode on horseback over 150 years ago, only now the felled tree trunks that his horses balanced on above swampy land had become dirt and gravel roads through the thick woods. We read notes from his diary. Since much of the island is still in pristine condition with indigenous fauna, we saw much of what he described.

CASTRO, THE CHURCH AND CHARLES: Charles Darwin also wrote about Castro town. Interestingly, he described it as depressed and deserted - a place where you couldn´t even purchase a cup of sugar. Now, we found Castro to be one of the best supplied small towns we´ve seen anywhere. Darwin wrote about Castro´s big yellow church with it´s entirely plank interior. We paid the church a visit and were totally impressed to find architecture just like a European cathedral, but with all brown wood where there would normally be stone or marble.

MARKETS, ARTISANS, AND PARK PARTIES: Southern Summer, February is a fiesta for Castro. Festivities we observed were coastal outdoor craft markets where women selling wool clothing would sit with whirlwind fingers and knit as we strolled by and struck up conversation. We also visited the Artisan´s show next to the church with indigenous artists and more local crafts, as well as chocolate to keep Steve happy. In the park, there was always something going on. Aside from vendors there were pantomimes, musicians, and two guys on the corner dressed up as Shrek and Sponge Bob Square Pants.

PROPER ENGLISH MEAL BY PROPER ENGLISH FRIENDS: Matt and Helen offered to show us a ``proper English Meal.`` When they cooked up our first Yorkshire Pudding, they apologized that the Chilean ingredients did not work right. But we liked it anyway. Best of all, it was a great last night with these two fun friends.

CARPA DIA: The day came to buy a tent (carpa, in Spanish). Through all our travels, we´ve carried sleeping bags, but it wasn't worth it to haul around a heavy tent. But South America is a hot spot for wilderness, forest, and camping opportunities. We wanted to Carpe ´Dium, so we bought a Carpa (tent). Haven´t slept in it yet, but our horizons have expanded, and the little thing only added 160 grams to our packs.

NOT LONGER TO TARRY, GOT ON THE FERRY, SAID HI TO KARI: When we hopped on our ferry to the mainland´s sleepy town of Chaiten, we were surprised to see that our friend Kari was standing on the dock waiting to board also. We arrived in Chaiten at 4:00 a.m., and the three of us checked in to the nearest, cheapest, quickest hostel. We weren´t being picky because we had only Z´s on our mind and plans to get out of town in the morning anyway.

BALSA WOOD HOSTEL: Melanie referred to our accommodation as ¨The Balsa Wood Hostel¨, because that´s what it looked like. The owners probably put it up themselves in a day with spare wood and nails. It looked like a construction site with its unpainted plywood paneling and cement downstairs floors. Some people slept in sleeping bags on the ground in doorless rooms. We, however, splurged for the six dollar spots with doors and beds.

SOME BAD NEWS, AND GOOD LUCK: During our ferry ride to Chaiten we learned that the Parque Nacional Torres Del Paine where we had hiked only recently was on fire from arson. We were very lucky to have enjoyed it while it was available. We hope the fire is stopped before too much damage is done.

DOMINGO IS DORMINGO (SUNDAY IS SLEEP DAY): Melanie made this joke to the local police officer when he explained to her why just about everything, including bus service, was closed. It was a Sunday. We decided the ¨S¨in Sunday stood for Sleepy and Stranded, but we took the opportunity to explore. Melanie headed up the dirt mountain roads outside the town for stunning mountain and cliffside views. Steve explored the beach boardwalk. Chaiten, on the surface, was a flat 50's grid-style dusty town, but on closer look there were 360 degree mountain views, horses, beaches, ocean cliffs, and precious picnicking families to be admired. With our wanderings, Chaiten got a `second chance to make a first impression.´

CORCOVAN VIEW: Perhaps the best thing about Chaiten was the view of the awesome volcanic mountain, Corcovan. Its sharp snow-covered peak pointed up above a rounded broad base. The unique shape reminded Melanie of a huge Hershey´s Kiss.

ON THE TOWN AT SUNDOWN: Fortunately at least one place of business opened on Sundays. Kari joined us for eats at the tiny food-court-style building near the shore. There, we caught the simultaneous sunset and moonrise opposite each other over mountain silhouettes. We loved the fine Chilean hospitality and friendly food servers.

SIESTA CULTURE: In Chaiten, like in several South American towns, many businesses close for Siestas during lunch and dinner time. Store hours posted often read something like ¨9-13, 15-18, 20-23¨.

NEXT TIME, FINALLY FUTALEUFU: We finally caught our bus to Futaleufu, where we once thought we would have arrived five days earlier. That was before we learned that small town ferries and busses don´t always cater to our desired schedules.

HAPPY BIRTHDAYS TO: Ray W., Mick H., Norm., Dad.


Wednesday, March 02, 2005


CHILE, FERRYING IN THE FJORDS: 10 - 14 February (written 1 Mar.)

JUST A FEW HOURS, NO SMELLING LIKE FLOWERS: Our bus returned to Puerto Natales from camping in Torres del Paine, and with no time for a shower we boarded our ship destined for the fjords of Chile.

EMBARK, PARK, AND NO SLEEP IN THE DARK: We embarked at night for a pre-dawn departure. Four of our Antarctica friends were on board as well. After an evening of cards and catch-up, we headed to our bunks in, once again, 'the dungeon'. Our twenty-four triple-bunk-bed birthing was right next to a motor room and anchor chain locker. The grim place grew on us, but it reminded us of the third-class travelers in ´´The Titanic´´. Throughout the first night, trucks and cargo were loudly loaded aboard the ferry. Metal clanks and knocks shattered our hopes for sleep.

SAVE THE BEST FOR THE BEGINNING: The first day of four was the best. The weather was warm. There was glacial viewing, sun bathing, and sea lion sightings. The White Channel was the narrowest point in the cruise through glacier cut valleys now filled with sea water. There, we saw sea lions all around the ship jumping clear out of the water. Later in the cruise, there were also whale sightings, beautiful sunrises and sets, and humongous jelly fish.

BAD MOVIES, BETTER CARD GAMES, AND BIG WINS: Night life on the ship was casual. We often met up with our friends and played cards. We usually skipped the ship´s bad movies. Once in a while we would participate in Bingo or other ship games. Twice Steve won prizes - one for a dance competition and another for playing with a wood-and-string Chilean toy (He succeeded at catching the small piece of wood on a spool nine times in thirty seconds).

EDUCATION: There were ship lectures on glaciers, flora, fauna, and the culture of the local Native Americans. The native Kawaskar people used to live in canoes and hunt sea lion until western civilization outlawed many of their practices. Unable to hunt and care for themselves, the people began to dwindle. Now only seven full blood Kawaskar people remain. The Chilean government is working to preserve their culture and language through twenty-one remaining half-Kawaskar progeny. The ship visited the tiny pueblo Puerto Eden accessible only by sea. Fourteen year old Juan Manual, a non-Kawaskar, showed us the look out, school, homes, and the pueblo. There were no roads or cars, and we walked on a wooden ´´Passarila,´´ boardwalk.

SWIMMING: Traditionally, only Kawaskar women know how to swim. Still, after our small wooden boat ride back to the big ship, Steve decided to join Melanie and Kari for a plunge in the channel waters before re-embarking on our ship.

SOME 'STORMY NIGHT': We were warned to expect one rough night in open seas. For about six hours we did sway a bit, but hardened by our real storms in Antarctica, this "stormy night" was a piece of cake.

PARTING IS NOT SO SWEET WHEN YOU DON'T GET TO SAY GOODBYE: Arriving early in the morning in Puerto Montt Chile, we missed saying goodbye to our Antarctica friends. We diverted our Northward travels by taking a four hour bus ride South to the town of Castro. Two hours into the ride, the bus stopped to pick up additional passengers -- to everyone's surprise, Matt, Helen, and Kari all got on - heading to the same place. It was sweeter to say `hello` again than to say `goodbye`.

NEXT TIME: Small town Stay in Castro on the Island of Chiloe.

HAPPY BIRTHDAYS TO: Randa S., Justin, Brian W., Tia P.


PUERTO NATALES, TORRES DEL PAINE, Feb 8-10 (Written 1 Mar)

BUSSES, BYE-BYES, AND HI'S: The morning after our bye-bye bash with Antarctica friends in Ushuaia, Argentina, we caught a 12-hour bus ride North (the only direction available by land). The sweet sorrow of parting wasn't so sorrowful since ten friends boarded the bus with us. Four got off along the way, and the rest met for dinner in the Chilean Andes town of Puerto Natales.

STRAIGHT AND SIDEWAYS: Our bus crossed the Straight of Magellan on a ferry. Like a powerful river, the water threatened to sweep the ferry sideways with a seven knot current. Crabbing of the boat countered the forceful water. Side thrusters on the boat and precision maneuvering by the captain kept us in line for a delicate landing. During vehicle offload, the current won the battle and the Captain had to make a second landing.

LONG WAY IN CHILE: We entered Chile and enjoyed the changing roadside scenery. Being such a long skinny country, Chile's claim to fame is it's diverse ecology as it spans so many latitudes. For much of the drive north, the land was arid and flat, but soon it grew hilly, and then mountainous. Before we knew it, we were back among lakes and dramatic mountains. This was where we were happy to stop in Puerto Natales.

OCEAN TOWN, MOUNTAIN TOWN: Ships depart North by sea from Puerto Natales to Chilean Fjords. Backpackers depart North by bus to Patagonian wilderness. We did both.

PATAGONIA ADVENTURE, the name of our hostel, is an appropriate title for this adventure packed, strikingly beautiful land. The huge glaciers of Patagonia give it the distinction of having the third largest ice-cap in the world, after Antarctica and Greenland. The nearby Parque Nacional Torres del Paine hosts many of these glaciers and a picturesque three towered mountain. We spent only two days in the Park. It deserved a dozen.

THE UNVEILING AND THE VEIL: A full day hike to the Mirador (viewpoint of the Towers) ended with 45 minutes of steep boulder hopping. When we reached the apex, an amazing scene of glacial splendor and mountainous glory was revealed. Three towers stood tall against the sky. We deciphered a geological story from black and white inclusions in the rock. Glacial ice clung to the cliff-side contributing rare ice bergs to the milky teal lake below. A virtual veil of water cascaded and covered the broad glacier-cut cliffs. A flat rock by the lake was a perfect place to enjoy a sun-baked picnic and nap.

OUT LIKE A HEADLAMP: That night, tired with blistered feet and happy hearts, we read a little in our tent - very little, before falling fast asleep. Along with happy hearts, we had hungry tummies since someone took our food bag tied in a tree (maybe an innocent mistake since it looked a little like a trash bag.)

GOING WITH THE FLOW IN THE MORNING GLOW: We woke to enjoy sunrise with our tent door facing a beautiful pink glacier and the glowing Towers. We momentarily considered packing up for another hike, but we were so happy in the warm tent and pretty campsite that we stayed all day.

BUS BACK AND BOAT BOARDING: That afternoon, our bus back to Puerto Natales arrived just in time for our next adventure, a boat through the Fjords of Chile. More on that NEXT TIME.

NOTE: COSTLY CHILE: We sadly learned the U.S. Dollar goes a shorter way in Chile than in Argentina. Bye Bye Argentinean Peso, hello prettier penny.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO: Michelle, and Jamie K., Sally H.


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