Posted 1:39 AM by MelanieandSteve
New Zealand is Gorgeous. On the drive North we discovered Fully Green covered hills contrasted against snowy white volcanic mountains and simultaneous ocean coastal views. Amid sighs of post card perfect splendor, we've also had some fun.

1000KM DRIVE NORTH: We're on our way to pick up Steve's sister, Mel, in Aukland.

FERRY RIDE: Caught the ferry crossing from South to North Island across the Cook Channel, and also caught some Z's on the boat since we were red eye all they way.

HOMEBASE FOR FILMING LORD OF THE RINGS: Ferry boat landed in Wellington, the homebase for the filming of Lord of the Rings, the third film of which we hope to see soon. Been brushing up on the first 2 in preparation. We didn't see much because we arrived at 0:dark hundred and drove north to sleep in the car. We'll be back with Mel on our way south.

TAUPO TOWN 0N TAUPO LAKE: Stayed two nights at this beautiful town on the edge of a lake and were surprised with a pluthera of things to see and do.
--Turns out this area is the largest and most active geothermal area in all of New Zealand, an eruptive country responding to crushing forces from it's two neighboring and converging tectonic plates, Pacific and Indo-Australian plates.
--Being right near the lake, Mel enjoyed mornings along the lake edge admiring the scenery and the stately black swans.
--Huka Falls: A river running at 4 meters deep and 100 meters wide suddenly gets forced into a channel only 10 meters deep and 15 meters wide. The result is crushing and loud and powerful. A bridge took us over the intense raging torrents and the waterfall at the end of the channel.
--Aratiatia Dam: This dam opens it's floodgates 4 times a day on schedule for the downstream hydro-electric plant, and the calm clear gently flowing river below suddenly grows rapid, white, and furious. More ferocious than the rapids we've previously met in the grand canyon. The water level literally grew about 4 meters right before our very eyes covering all the "tide pools" and rocks we first admired. The human made flash flood lasted about a half an hour before the floodgates closed and the river again receded to its gentle mirror-calm trickle. Wouldn't it be great to have run these rapids?
-- Craters of the Moon Geothermal Viewing Area: We spent two hours meandering this hot spot of steam vents (fumeroles), craters, mud pots, and former geysers. Sulpher smell and all, we were reminded of Yellowstone in Wyoming, only there was no Old Faithful (and no Old Faithful Viewing Crowd.)
--Lake Swimming and Pumice Play: We spent a few hours laying out and swimming along Taupo lake enjoying the sunshine. The shores of the lake are lined with floating pumice stone from previous volcanic eruptions - so fun to play with as it looks like rock but floats like foam. We played catch with our rocks in the surf.
--Doing our Homework for Lord of the Rings: Our hostel had a lovely lake view Television Lounge with a video library. Being that we are in "Middle Earth," we figured we ought to get ready to see "The Return of the King." We needed to brush up on "Twin Towers" so we put the video on. Half the other guests in the hostel joined us for a friendly Lord of the Rings Evening.

DROVE TO AUKLAND: today we arrived in the big city - the "Gateway to New Zealand". It's the biggest city we've seen in the Southern Hemisphere yet, and Melanie is feeling a little bit overwhelmed by it and it's traffic. It's reminiscent of Down Town San Francisco, however, and promises some opportunities for good fun. We drove around and explored this afternoon and enjoyed a great meal out followed by a short walk-about.

KIWI'S LOVE THEIR HOMES: A consistent sentiment in each NZ town we've visited is the people we talk to refer to where they live with words like "the most beautiful place on earth". Repeatedly, people encourage us to not drive through so fast, but to stay in their area and camp or explore. Nice to see their love for where they are. Also, very understandable when we look around.

Happy Anniversary today to Jennie and Bill

Posted 12:55 AM by MelanieandSteve
We're in a New Country, New Zealand. - "EnZed".

Since last blog on 12/9, we saw great lakes, great oceans, wildlife, pulled the old college-all-nighter, flew to a new country, and bought yet another car.

SALTY LAKE HART: Forgot to mention this in the last blog, after Coober Pedy, we drove past a sparkling lake in the middle of the desert (not far from the well known and huge Ayers lake). Like a mirage, it seemed so silvery, broad, clear, and inviting. Being mid desert, we had to stop and pay it a visit. It was a hike from the road, and when we got to the water's edge, we "couldn't believe our eyes." Really, we couldn't. There was no water. It was a totally dry salt bed covered side to side with sparkling white chrystals. We walked out a couple hundred yards onto it and the chrystals only got more dense, but there never was any water. When we returned to our car and looked back, our eyes still told us in no uncertain way that this was a deep wet watery lake. We could not shake the illusion. Good thing we weren't desparate explorers in need of agua.

BLUE LAKE: This one really was wet. Driving south through the town of Mount Gambier, we came across the volcanic crater lake caused by Gambier's eruption 4 or 5K years ago, Australia's most recent volcanic activity. The lake is a mile deep and is named Blue Lake for a reason. We have never seen a lake so blue. Not aqua or teal, but deep royal dark blue blue blue. When we came upon it in our car, we both spontaneously gasped in disbelief - never seen water color like this in a lake before. Our timing is good, however, because according to the literature, every winter over a period of about three days, the lake suddenly turns grey until the next November summer. But they still call it Blue Lake even then. Perhaps "Chameleon Lake" would be more appropriate. (Or jawbreaker lake, Jeckel and Hyde lake, Bruise lake, or Steve likes Lake of the Blue and the Grey.).

VICTORIA: New State. New Time zone, but don't worry about that, we're not there anymore and never even set our watches. Heading west toward Melbourne through some gorgeous scenic coast on the Great Ocean Road.

GREAT OCEAN ROAD: The big Victoria Attraction to the south coast. It's a string of awe inspiring scenes and shipwreck stories - with so much to see you have to begin to pick and choose for time's sake. We slept at "The Crags" and woke to a craggy cliffy ocean view to die for, drove by the Bay of Islands, Bay of Martyrs, and the 12 Apostles, all areas where erosion has left huge pillars standing like tall columnar islands right in the middle of the water and breakers. London Bridge was like this only two such pillars were connected together with a tunnel between. Funny story goes with that one, see below about a man's unlucky day. And we visited the sight of the shipwreck of the Loch Ard where all but two people perished in the 1800s when it was blown into the cliffs. The cliffs tell the story quite well by themselves, but the cliff walks are posted with written and interesting informational drama as well.

A MAN'S UNLUCKY DAY - LONDON BRIDGE FELL DOWN: When you see these teatering rock formations, you can't help but wonder when the ocean waves will finally crash them into the water. About 10 years ago, one well known formation did collapse - mid day and mid tourist visit. Then, the "London Bridge" was a series of two bridges, one connected to the main land. People could walk right out over the water. One couple was caught on the wrong side when the arch adjacent to the mainland collapsed. They were stranded on the remaining bridge awaiting rescue. Unlucky enough? A helicopter came. The guy thought he was going to be saved. Turned out to be just a news copter wanting an interview. The man refused the interview. But why? Well, his boss recognized him when the happy couple on a romantic excursion-gone-bad was pasted all over the TV news. Trouble is, the man had called in sick that day. Not unlucky enough, his wife saw the news story too -- -- from home.

TOURQUAY BEACH: spent a nice camping night next to this famous surfing beach steps from the water. In the morning, Mel saw lots of surfers during her gorgeous early morning run. It became a mecca for windsurfers and kite boarders after the winds picked up. Couldn't have been prettier.

WILDLIFE SIGHTINGS:
-More cammels in the road in Southern Australia. Saddly, two of them became part of a car accident.
-Flock of 10 Emus in the desert near a water hole. First time we've seen them in a community of more than 2.
-Thorny Devil: We'd been looking for one of these prickly looking lizards for some time and found one on the way to Uluru.
-Koala: Saw this snuggly cuddler strolling on all fours along the road while we were driving on the Great Ocean Road. Minutes before, Steve pointed out a sign warning of Koala's in the area and Melanie had decided to make it a goal to see one in the wild before the day was through.

LEAVING THE LAND DOWN UNDER FOR THE LAND JUST DOWN EAST: Flew red eye to ChristChurch New Zealand - watched "Finding Nemo" on the plane instead of sleeping and arrived exhausted at dawn. Aah, reminders of college days. Found a hostel that had a room for immediate check in and enjoyed a day of repeated naps. Aah, reminders of kindergarten days.

CHRISTCHURCH is a special city - clean, safe, comfortable. It's the first city we've seen in our Austro-New Zealand travels that has some of the old style charm of European cities like Paris, Prague, Freiburg, or London. But it's got all the young country amenities you could want. We went to the central market the day we arrived complete with live music and ambiance, and we went to the arts district to see "The Whale Rider" in an old artsy theater. Mel has been reading "The Whale Rider" book about a New Zealand Mauri Girl who can communicate with the whales. Great movie. Great book so far.

WHEELS: Bought a car today. Looked into renting since we're only in NZ for less than a month, but they keep telling us it's high season and that's why rentals are either not available or not affordable. So we found a car cheap and welcomed the '84 Mazda 626 into our family of cars. Now we've got vehicles in 3 Countries. U.S. OZ, and NZ. An international collection.

SNAIL MAIL: Some of you have asked how you can send us things the old way - non electronic. We'd love that. For the first time in our travels, we are able to give a specific date of where we'll be and what address will reach us. We will fly back to Melbourne Australia on January 11, 2004 and we will be in Melbourne for at least a couple days. So mail sent to their post office can easily be received any time before the 11th and they will hold it for us.

Send it to:

(our names)
C/- Poste Restante
Melbourne, Victoria 3000
Australia

If, say, the post office tells you that your letter can't get there by the 11th of January, we know that after Melbourne, we will be heading toward Sydney. The post offices tend to hold letters for up to a month. So that would be the next easy option.

Send to:

(our name)
C/- Poste Restante
Sydney General Post Office (GPO), New South Wales, 2001
Australia

Looking forward to meeting up with Steve's Sister Melanie for Christmas in just a few days.
Christmas down under is so much less commercialized. It's very refreshing. We are not bombarded with christmas carrols though we do hear the occasional one.

Happy Birthday coming up to Sandy H on the 23'd Dec, I mean 22'd, uh, 23?

Happy Birthday to Jim C yesterday.

And Happy Anniversary coming up to Bill and Jennie